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Thanksgiving Soup

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Wow it's been a long time since Mom and I have blogged! We keep talking about starting this thing up again, but then life gets in the way. The calling and the cooking hasn't stopped - just the writing about it. I figured there's no better time for a Mother's Sauce do-over than right after Thanksgiving, ie the day that I call Mom for cooking help more than I do the rest of the year combined.

Growing up, Thanksgiving featured a bountiful table that always showed off a marriage of tradition and experimentation. Mom works her face off to prepare enough food for nine small armies, whether we're expecting carloads of guests or it's just Mom, Dad, and me. We always get the holiday staples - potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce, turkey, rolls, a variety of roasted veggies - but Mom loves to try out new dishes too. Some, like her butternut squash and pesto casserole, have become new staples. We even have a running joke; every year without fail she tears her kitchen apart to hunt for a creamed onion recipe that nobody ever eats. But we have to have the onions, because Mom has to freak out about which cookbook the recipe is it. That's my favorite Thanksgiving tradition.

Since I moved to San Francisco, my husband and I have become the go-to Thanksgiving hosts for our local friends, many of whom are also East Coast transplants. We fry a turkey in the doorway of our open garage [Note: I know, I know, it's an incredibly stupid thing to do. But we have a million fire extinguishers and million rules, and so far we've done it three times without incident.] and I try my best to prepare the same side dishes with the same finesse as Mom does. Last year I pretty much had a nervous breakdown over dinner, and was pushed over the edge when some of my guest showed up half an hour early and hung out in the kitchen while I tried frantically to finish preparing dinner while keeping up an interesting conversation. I have crazy kitchen ADD so I nearly tried to off myself with a vegetable peeler.

We decided to go for more of a potluck this year, so that I wouldn't wreck any relationships. I have no idea how Mom does this every year. Each of her dishes, the turkey, the desserts, the cinnamon rolls (the cinnamon rolls!) are so delicious and so perfectly timed. I have no idea how everything is fresh and hot all at the same time. I'm even using her recipes - for my birthday a few years ago, Mom gave me an amazing homemade cookbook of all her Thanksgiving dishes, tips, and shortcuts. It's like my holiday Bible. But I'm missing a key ingredient - grace under pressure.

ANYWAY, this blog is actually about soup. Specifically, the soup I just finished making with Thanksgiving leftovers. As my husband was carving our fried turkey on Thursday, he asked if I wanted to save the carcass, and I impulsively said yes - even though I've never really made soup from scratch before. But guess who has?

I called Mom last night and she advised me to throw the turkey bones into my slow cooker, along with chopped up onions, carrots, celery, some herbs de provence, and enough water to cover. Especially perfect because I had all kinds of leftover carrot and celery sticks from pre-dinner dip hour. (You haven't of dip hour? It's like cocktail hour, but with creamy dips and veggies. Well, and cocktails.) Just before I switched that baby on I remembered the leftover Chinese duck and pork that one of our T-day guests brought - all still on the bone - so I threw that in, too. Cooked in the crockpot on high for 2 hours, then on low for about 7.

The stock this produced is so rich-looking, a deep caramel color that smells like absolute heaven. This morning I re-strained and skimmed it, and it's now bubbling on the stove with new carrots and celery and all of the meat that I picked off the boiled bones. I'm going to add some rice, I think. Of course I don't know when to do that, so I'll probably call you in 10, Mom.



Thanksgiving Leftover Soup
  1. Put into a crockpot: Leftover meat and bones (I used turkey, pork, and duck), roughly chopped carrots, celery, onion, and herbs de provence. Add enough water to cover.  
  2. Cook on high for 2 hours
  3. Turn heat down to low and cook for 6-8 hours 
  4. Strain the broth (save the meat!), cool at room temperature, then refrigerate overnight 
  5. The next morning, skim the fat from the top and strain again. The broth will seem goopy and gelatinous. This is a good thing!
  6. Add fresh chopped carrots and celery, bring to a boil
  7. Turn down to a simmer and add the meat, plus any other leftover meat you have (I added more turkey)
  8. Simmer for about 25 minutes. You can add rice, a little bit at a time, until it's cooked. 



Grammy's Stuffed Tomatoes

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Grandma would bake "a nice loaf of date nut bread" whenever someone died. Whenever anyone was under the weather she made chicken soup, rich with egg noodles and white meat chicken. Whenever anyone had a cough, she made a concoction of lemon juice, honey and egg whites.

I have so many memories of my grammy...pretty much all centered around her no nonsense cooking.. Grammy didn't have much but she had this way of making me feel special whenever we spent time together. One phone call to her about spending the weekend at her house (she lived a mere 4 miles from us) would send her flying to Laughlin's market to get freshly ground "steakburger", and frankfurters that snapped when you bit into them. Friday night was a burger cooked in her cast iron skillet with a pat of butter (oh, my arteries), and Saturday was ALWAYS franks and beans night, and to top it all off,...butterscotch pudding served in her fancy square depression glass dishes, topped with a dollop of freshly whipped cream.

To me, this was just routine..it's what grammies did...it was how she expressed her love. Apparently it rubbed off on me because I have spent years cooking and baking for my two children and all of their friends ( will get to that later) and now that my first grandchild will be arriving, my grandma apron is neatly tied around my waist...waiting to bake cookies...waiting to wrap my arms around this wonderful creature...waiting to spend many moments teaching him/her how to produce magic through cooking



So, my friends....time to begin my blog...hope you all will like it....I will start with Gram's recipe for stuffed tomatoes (as I remember it....she never wrote it down)...and will continue on with some of my own in future blogs



heat oven to 375

grease an oversized 6 unit muffin tin

6 large ripe tomatoes

8 oz sharp cheddar cheese, diced very small ( or use packaged shredded cheese)

2 stalks celery, finely diced

1 small onion, finely diced

2 slices bread, torn into small pieces


cut the tops off the tomatoes and scoop out the insides...place in bowl along with all of the cheese, celery, onion and bread.and salt and pepper to taste..mix well..place the hollowed out tomato shells into the muffin tins and stuff them with the mixture...Pile them nice and high....bake about 30-40 minutes or until the tomatoes are nice and soft and the cheese mixture is bubbly



We used to have this as our main course with fresh corn on the cob and a big salad. I have made this dish using smaller tomatoes and served it as a side..I have also made this dish with huge beefsteak tomatoes...it all comes out DELICIOUS




Home on the Range

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I've spent the last week in my mother's kitchen, watching her whip up lemon squares, caramel brownies, Moroccan-style turkey meatballs, garlicky tomato chutney served cold over whole wheat pasta, fruit salads, juicy grilled meats...my mouth is in a constant state of watering.

My wedding is in two months (freak out!) and besides helping me with finding a dress and planning all of the logistics of our rather casual BBQ buffet, Mom made homemade Concord grape jelly for us to give as wedding favors.

I grew up in a suburb of Boston, and our house was remotely located on six acres of wooded land that bordered a conservation area. We didn't have many neighbors - my playmates included a deer I named Freckles and a fox that I would hand-feed bologna. It wasn't the smartest idea, but who thinks of that when they're 9?

Deep in the thicket behind our backyard, Concord grapes grew wild in fragrant clusters, and every year, when the tail end of summer bumped up against the autumn, my father would take me and my brother out to to the woods so we could fill paper grocery bags with these plump wild fruits. Mom would spend two days making jar after jar of jelly, and the winter months were spent smearing the sweetly tannic stuff on breakfast toast and peanut butter sandwiches. 

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A Pocket Full of Pies

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I always think of blackberries on the fourth of July. A weird association, considering that most Americans probably hear "Independence Day" and think "Barbecue. Beer. Mmmmm. Beer."

But...

Today is my father's birthday (Happy Birthday, Dad!) so the 4th generally means some kind of celebratory dessert. When I was little, my family spent a few summers renting a house in Westport, Massachusetts (very, very different from the tawny Westport, Connecticut, lest  you judge me, judger.). The simple vacation rental had a grassy backyard that spilled right onto a small, rocky beach. Dad had these waist-high rubber waders, and I remember many summer nights spent perched on his shoulders while he stood in the ocean with his fishing pole, trying, in vain, to catch the next night's supper.

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F is for Farmer's Market, Fennel, and F$#% This is a Lot of Vegetables

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Every Saturday, there's a farmer's market that's about a ten minute walk from my house. I headed down there today, coffee in hand, ready to navigate the armies of yuppie moms chatting on iPhones while pushing gigantic strollers (these women make my brain make this noise: arrrrrrrwwwwweeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaggggggg!!!!!).

The sun was shining, the strawberries were abundant, the Greenpeace petitioners were armed with smiles and catchy opening lines. Right away I smelled something intoxicating. Lemony. Basily.

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Yet another cooking blog

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I am not a food snob, nor do I aspire to be one. I'm just a lady who grew up eating amazing food, thanks to my Mom's badass culinary stylings.

Mom's cooking was (and is) so good, in fact, that I've always been a little bit intimidated by the kitchen, because I know that I'll never be able to open my cupboards and just "know" what to make for dinner with the ingredients I've got stocked, like Mom always seems to. She's also an amazing baker, and Christmas, especially, is always a sinful and sugary wonderland of cookies, breads, pies, tarts, and candy.

Until I hit 30ish, I usually went the take-out route. It was easier, especially since, most of the time, I was dining solo. The nights I didn't eat in front of the TV, I went out for dinner with friends, hitting divey neighborhood favorites with the same gusto as trendy of-the-moment bistros.

Eventually, I got tired of eating this way. And I got engaged, to a wonderful man who counts grilled cheese sandwiches and steaks with rose-red centers among his favorite dishes to prepare and to eat. After we moved in together, I also got a little bit fat.

So, I decided to start cooking; to save money, save some calories, and try and develop my relationship with my mother, who has spent my entire life expressing love through delicious and healthy food. I hope to one day do the same for my children.

I have an arsenal of cookbooks and a Williams Sonoma's worth of gadgets, thanks, of course, to Mom. She always hoped that I'd get the cooking 'bug,' and she delights in helping me add to my collection of culinary equipment that until pretty recently served only to collect dust in my kitchen.

I live in San Francisco and Mom lives in Boston, and, together, over the phone and via email, we are working towards arming me with the same skills that Mom developed over 30+ years of cooking for her family. Not a meal goes by without me phoning Mom for help. These conversations are filled with recipes, laughter, and so much advice-on-the-fly on Mom's part that I often joke that she should open a hotline for people like me who need guidance on how to sear a steak, or who are halfway through making pie crust when they realize they don't have buttermilk. Mom knows all - even how to make said buttermilk from milk and vinegar. (Maybe it's old news to you, but to a novice cook like me, that's magical!)

So yes, this is yet another cooking blog, but for me it's more a way to share not only recipes, but my mother's delicious wisdom, one ingredient at a time.